Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Real Meal Deals

COVER STORY

There is no shortage of creative and classy dining in Louisville, but it's the unheralded diners and dives that keep us fed, day in and day out. Here's to the unsung heroes of the local dining scene.

I've never read a travel magazine story about Louisville that didn't insist that you must eat at Lynn's Paradise Café. Our local chefs have competed on "Iron Chef America" and "Throwdown with Bobby Flay." Gourmet magazines frequently cite high-end eateries like 610 Magnolia, Proof on Main, the English Grill and Corbett's - An American Place as evidence of this city's culinary ambitions.

But for every seared scallop with English pea flan or Wagyu ribeye that is served at the city's more notable establishments, there are dozens more unsung (and much more inexpensive) hash houses keeping our bellies full and satisfied.

Like the corner bar — a beloved icon around here — Louisville's diners and dives do the heavy lifting when it comes to keeping the majority of us watered and fed.

I'm not a chef or a professional food writer, but food is a whole lot more than mere sustenance to me; a great restaurant turns me into a tween at a Jonas Brothers concert, yelling and begging for more — which becomes easier when I know that dinner for two won't cost $100.

Here, then, is a sampling of some of Kentuckiana's best places to go for cheap eats.

ANNIE CAFÉ
This Vietnamese restaurant is not as legendary as the nearby Vietnam Kitchen, but that just makes it much easier to get a table on a Saturday night. The pho — a traditional dish of thinly sliced beef in rice-noodle soup — is hard to forget, and the service is excellent. Rebecca Dennison, a programmer at UPS, likes that she can order something spicy off the lunch menu and get a dinner-sized portion for less than $6. “Fabulous!” is her one-word review. The vegetarian options are equally satisfying and affordable.

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD
Lebowski Fest co-founder Will Russell introduced me to some of the best fish in the region here. But what really stands out for him are the onion rings. “They are to die for,” Russell said. “They are technically not rings, but more like onion shrapnel dipped in a delicious batter and fried to high heaven.” The wood-paneled dining room is far from glamorous, but fish lovers don't care when the food is this good (and cheap). They keep odd hours, so call first.

DAKSHIN
Located in the Eastland Shopping Center in Fern Creek, DakShin specializes in fare that is slightly more exotic that most local Indian joints, and the variety of offerings is enormous. “There's a huge vegetarian menu, unusual ingredients, everything tastes new and fresh and exciting,” raved Carrie Neumayer, a Louisville musician and middle school art teacher. The buffet lunch is a real bargain ($6.99 weekdays and $7.99 on weekends) and I'd be remiss if I didn't rave about the décor — the interior is like a log cabin, but filled with TVs playing MTV-India.

KOREANA
Go here for the Korean BBQ, advises Summer Auerbach, vice president of operations for Rainbow Blossom Natural Food Markets. “You choose a meat and they bring it out raw, usually in thin slices, to your table and you grill it yourself on a tabletop grill,” she said. “They also bring out a tray of 12 different Korean condiments in the kimchi realm, and a plate full of lettuce leaves to make lettuce wraps.”

LADYHAWKS CAFÉ
Bison burgers aren't that exotic anymore. But have you ever had an Elk burger? The Native American-inspired offerings are far from the mainstream, and far and away the best place to have the lunch of your life. This eatery is a room in the Creekside Outpost Health Food Store, adjacent to a wellness clinic (where you can get ear candling done). Located just down the road from Indiana University Southeast, it's open for lunch Tuesday through Friday. 614 Hausfeldt Lane in New Albany, 948-9118

LA ROSITA

People get excited when they talk about this Mexican restaurant in New Albany. “I love, love La Rosita,” gushed Tandee Ogburn, community engagement coordinator at Volunteers of America. “It is as affordable as any other Mexican joint, but it's authentic, fresh and delicious! Their green salsa is amazing.” Foodies cross the river for what they consider the most authentic Mexican grub in Kentuckiana. “Seriously cheap, seriously amazing,” said UofL med student Genny Carnero.

LAS GORDITAS

Your overhead doesn't get much lower than when you're operating your restaurant out of a large van parked in a suburban shopping center. Thus, the folks at Las Gorditas, who sling tacos on weekend nights outside the aforementioned Eastland Shopping Center, can pass the savings onto you. “My favorite dish is the tacos with pastor, which is pork meat that has been marinated in a secret recipe and then cooked in a rotisserie with pineapple on top,” said graphic designer April Fultz. “You can also get Mexican Coke and other soft drinks with real sugar, in the glass bottles. A meal and a drink costs about 10 bucks — cash only.”

THE LITTLE CHEF
“Eating at Little Chef is comforting, kind of like hanging out in your mawmaw's kitchen and watching her cook — except it's not your mawmaw, it's 2 in the morning, it's a little grimier and you're with your friends who are pretty much like your family,” said Hillary Harrison, editor of Bejeezus magazine. The diner has stools for no more than 10 or so. (If it were an apartment in New York, it would rent for $1,200 a month). The air quality reminds you that smoking is still legal in New Albany establishments. The food is as all-American as it comes, and it's open 24/7.

LOTSA PASTA
“Lotsa Pasta has a surprisingly cheap deli, which is very good for sandwiches,” notes musician Joe Manning, who leads the Louisville band King's Daughters and Sons. There's nothing musical about the deli inside this international food shop in St. Matthews, but composer and music teacher Jeremy Podgursky agrees. “This is one of the best deals in town,” he said. “Huge, made-to-order sandwiches and hearty soups.”

OLLIE'S TROLLEY

Erica Rucker, the energetic grad student who organized last year's Terrastock music festival in Louisville, is a fan, then and now: “I hadn't had an Ollie Burger in over 25 years, and my boyfriend, Rob, insisted that they were still worth eating,” she said. “He was right. It is a good burger and the staff is super efficient.” Ollie's doesn't offer much in the way of seating, but the burgers are worth the inconvenience. 978 S. Third St., 583-5214

PIG CITY BBQ

Mark Bacon hosts “Jazz Journeys” Sunday afternoons on WFPK-FM and, true to his name, loves some smoked pig. “Good barbecue is never about the sauces, it's about smoking the meat,” Bacon said. “Pig City is a Vatican of smoked meat. Unparalleled in Louisville. Despite a suburban, soulless interior, the food transports.” Head out to Middletown and ponder your soul, Memphis-style. 12003 Shelbyville Road, 244-3535

SANTA FE GRILL
UofL professor Jonathan Haws knows what he wants at this place, located just up the street from Churchill Downs: “One-dollar Mexican tacos. Always. They are the best in town because they are authentic and taste great.” Bring cash, and enjoy some horchata, a sweet, milky drink that's wildly popular in Latin America.

SMOKETOWN USA

The terms “barbecue joint” and “vegetarian-friendly” are rarely used in the same sentence. But this funky eatery, located between Old Louisville and the Highlands, has an array of tasty side dishes that can go with or without a heaping mound of pulled pork. “Anywhere that has tasty barbecue, plus I can bring my vegetarian friends, is pretty cool,” said UofL med student Elizabeth Matera. “Try the cabbage salad and the mac and cheese. Yum.”

STAN'S FISH SANDWICH
If they aren't into the offerings at Lotsa Pasta, Manning and Podgursky stroll a few doors down to Stan's. “The fish sandwich is good because you can get it on a hoagie-type bun, which accommodates the long fish pieces, unlike, say, a piece of rye bread, which leaves you with fried fish spiking out of the side,” Manning said. And even though he always walks out “smelling like a longshoreman,” Podgursky said he appreciates the magic behind a good fried-fish sandwich. “Great green beans, as well.”

ZEPPELIN CAFÉ

Local character Mike Welch went here on a recommendation from a friend and was astounded by the amazingly low prices. “I then ordered their steak, which was complete perfection,” he said. “I will even go out on a limb and say it is the best steak in the city. I was pleasantly baffled by this eatery, and it will remain one of my favorites for a long time.” This Schnitzelburg newcomer has only been open since last summer but seems to be doing boffo business. 1036 E. Burnett Ave, 365-3551


A big bowl of Bun Dac Biet at Annie Cafe. (Credit: John Rott)

c. 2009 Velocity Weekly

Friday, February 13, 2009

Pro/Con: Is it more fun to watch TV on DVD?

By Peter Berkowitz
who's the original mad man, literally

YES.

The two things I ever wanted from life were love and a machine that would let me watch TV shows, in their entirety, over and over again and at my leisure. When I like a TV show, I really like it. Why else watch it? I want it, and I want it now. What's so great about waiting? I had to wait until 32 before I found love. Believe me, waiting is overrated.

The last decade has been a golden age of quality drama, and the best stories are addictive. Today, however, the pickings are a lot slimmer. Mad Men runs its 13 episodes and then disappears for most of the year. A lot of people seem to get excited, but also confused, about Lost. I haven't seen it yet, but when I start, I bet it will be more fun to binge on season after season on DVD, rather than wait seven years to get all the answers. Some of my favorite shows have been ones that I didn't start watching from the beginning. When I started The Shield, it led to many happy nights that ended around 5 in the morning. Now that's the way to watch TV!

My lady refused to acknowledge that Alias could possibly be any good. The majority of her argument, as near as I could determine, was based on her hatred of Jennifer Garner. During its first three seasons, Alias was exciting and nail-biting. Waiting for a new episode was — well, I don't want to minimize actual human suffering, but in all seriousness, it was torture. And I was watching them on DVD! As I watched season four on regular TV, it took long, slow weeks to realize that the writers had run out of good ideas (Heroes, anyone? 24?) and that my series had lost its mojo.

One day, I finally persuaded my lady to give it a chance — but only the first three seasons. "OK, blow me away," she ordered. By the end of the third season, she wanted to ignore my warnings and continue watching "more, more, more!" I've prevailed, however. We've since shared the joys of 30 Rock, Weeds, Dexter, Greek and so much more together. I just don't understand why Wild & Woolly doesn't have Friday Night Lights yet; I know that my lady will like it.


By David Daley
who still weeps for Omar

NO.

It is, of course, great fun to binge on a full season of a great show, and I wouldn't argue otherwise. After all, that seems to be the way I watch most of my favorite shows these days. It's how my wife and I watched The Wire and Californication, caught up with season one of Mad Men and the first several seasons of The Sopranos — staying up late into the night, turning to each other as the credits rolled for a quick exchange of something like: "Another?" "Yup." Right now, we've got season one of "Damages" going, as well as a British conspiracy thriller called State of Play.

But we caught up with Mad Men in time to watch season two in real time — well, on demand the next night, without the commercials — and I quickly realized how much you miss when you're out-of-sync with the rest of the audience. New York magazine and Entertainment Weekly do amazing episode recaps and analyses on their Web sites, and they'd always pick up on some brilliant detail I'd missed. Yes, it was no fun to wait another seven days for the latest from Sterling Cooper, but the routine of reading about the episode on Tuesday made the week go by faster. It also created a sort of online watercooler — and at a time when the media universe has fragmented into a million pieces, and we can't even watch the same shows at the same time anymore, it's nice to have that connection.

Just as important, I didn't have to be that jerk who runs around screaming about "spoiler alerts." With The Wire, we were still in the middle of season two when a random New York Times story about cigarette sales in poor neighborhoods dropped the detail that — spoiler alert! — Omar got killed after buying a pack of Newports. Thanks a lot, New York Times.

And knowing that we'd probably start Damages someday, that meant turning quickly through all the stories and reviews that got written when season two started recently, for fear of discovering some plot point. Of course, it didn't work. I know who wins the big lawsuit. As much fun as it is to gorge on shows, to watch them at your leisure, it's a lot less entertaining when you need to spend the rest of the time with your eyes closed and hands over your ears.



c. 2009 Courier-Journal

Friday, February 06, 2009

Pro/Con: Are the Grammys still relevant?

By Jeffrey Lee Puckett,
who's cold and in the dark


YES.

While arguing in favor of the Grammys' relevance is a bit like arguing in favor of blunt force trauma, there are a couple of positives.

No, really.

Inclusiveness is a big one. Given the enormous scope of the music industry, the number of categories offered by the Grammys is appropriately expansive, largely fair and absolutely crushes the number offered by its only competition, the American Music Awards.

There are 31 fields represented, including polka, children's music and comedy in addition to the obvious traditional choices (pop, rock, rap, country, jazz, etc.). Some of those fields are broken down into as many as seven categories, which means there's a best jazz instrumental solo category and a best jazz instrumental album, individual or group category.

So the bases are covered within most reasonable expectations, although the evangelical could certainly make a case for more categories. The alternative-music album category by itself leaves out important sub-categories such as punk, art rock and, um, pornogrind.

The other positive is, unfortunately, also a negative: The Grammys are the only game in town.

With the Billboard Music Awards currently dormant, the aforementioned American Music Awards is the Grammys' only rival — and the AMAs are determined by the same same people — mainstream consumers — who make the likes of Celine Dion and Nickelback into superstars.

Until something changes, that means a Grammy Award will remain our best and quickest resource for gauging a performer's artistic worth — unless, of course, we simply decide for ourselves.

But that's way too easy.


By Peter Berkowitz,
who blogs his opinions


NO.

The Grammys have been slightly less relevant in the past, I suppose — Jethro Tull's 1988 win for Best Hard Rock/Heavy Metal Performance is an all-time embarrassing classic. But newly relevant? That's like saying Guns N' Roses is more relevant now than in 2004 because they actually released an album this year.

Their album is still a hilariously insane, bloated, nonsensical mess that has no actual relevance to people who listen to music for pleasure. Just like the Grammys!

Are there some relevant nominees across all these many categories? Sure. Lil' Wayne, for example. But why is it that the best musicians tend to get nominated only after they've been around for years, and often long after they've produced their best music? Why isn't there a rule against Grammy voters being ignorant? It's great to see M.I.A. nominated, but that song has been out for years. Robyn's album was released in 2005.

Of course, best new artist has always been a farce. Lucinda Williams earned a nod in 1998 after five albums and 20 years in the business. Am I supposed to find this farce "relevant" because No Age, an inspired, fiery young band is nominated — for Best Packaging? Their album, Nouns, a lot more relevant in my world than Robert Plant trying to sound like a bluegrass singer.

Speaking of new artists, the Jonas Brothers? Is this the Disney Channel awards? I'm not saying that tweens can't be talented — wait, actually, I am saying that.

Just go down the list of nominees, and you'll wonder if you stepped into a time machine: The Eagles, James Taylor (covering Elvis, no less), Maroon 5, OneRepubic, Spyro Gyra. Spyro Gyra? Madonna is nominated for "Best Dance Recording" — why are 70-year-old voters who haven't gone out to a dance club since that meant shimmying to the Glenn Miller Orchestra telling us what the best dance music is?

Natalie Cole, Still Unforgettable? I wish I could forget that all she can do is repackage her great father's legacy.

Boyz II Men are even nominated, for Obama's sake. I guess it really is so hard to say goodbye to yesterday.



c. 2009 Courier-Journal